Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all. Most of the troubleshooting for this code were wiring or power. Try wiggling the connector while the truck is running to see if there is a change in the running of the engine such as stumbling. Not saying you can't correct the issue but sometimes jobs like this even require special model only tools. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues.
As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process? Since I have gotten the injector o-ring issues, and oil consumption problems nailed down, I am starting to check other things off the list. I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on. Had code P1670, cleared it. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power.
To check that,you need to first check the icp sensor connector drivers side cylinder head front. The codes below are when I first scanned it and codes 3, 4, and 5 were back on it I scanned it again today - any idea what would cause this if those codes are related to that problem or not? Plus the truck tossed a code for 4 and 5 injector. Hutch mod on tank re-circulator was stopped up deleted it, added inline filter. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. Wiggled engine wiring harness and it never dropped. I hope this information is helpful.
P1261- P1268 High to low side short cyl. Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. The sensor is located between the valve cover and the block. P1 means unique to honda, P1 means factory code, P0 means federal generic codes.
After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Ohm'd out both sensors - same reading Ohm'd out wires leading to sensors - same reading Ohm'd out rear diff speed sensor against a new one - same reading. Check the wiring harness that plugs in to the valve covers. Make sure there are no breaks, or rub areas. When the light is on the truck has a slight miss feeling to it and it seems low on power when the light goes off it will buck and sputter the lever off and it seems to have loads of power then the light comes on it will buck and sputter then go back to having low power.
My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. What I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. This is why I think you may have a short somewhere or maybe a sticking relay.
The P0603 code I think is not uncommon with a programmer or chip. As in they are working. He got it going again and then it was fine and he drove home no problem. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I have re-removed and reinstalled each sensor again. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Make sure there are no breaks, or rub areas. New starter and solenoid 5. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke.
I was excited to say the least. It didn't pull to the right but it felt kinda odd. I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. The relay maybe bad, it maybe sticking.
They sure have figured out how to make us keep coming back to them. Master cyclinder is full of fluid. Use this information at your own risk. If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code? I have cleared the codes, but once I start pulling out of the driveway, the codes come right back again for both front wheels. Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7. The owner of this site may be a member of various diesel related forums which may be referenced on these pages.